Your printer

The picker is brand, then model, the same shape as My Filaments, and it lists what we support rather than every printer that exists.

• Bambu Lab: the full range, including the A1 and A1 mini, the P1 and P2 families, the X1 family and the H2 family, each with its own build plates and presets.
• Other: anything else. See below.

Own more than one? Add each of them under Settings → Printer and they all stay there. Say which one a print is for in the Print setup tab on Style & convert, before you convert: that choice sets the Max colors budget, caps an art print to that plate, and decides which slicers the download offers. The download panel’s Printer & slicer fold shows the same choice and can still change it. Every 3MF is preset mapped to the exact printer you pick. With a single printer there is nothing to choose and it simply uses yours.

Support for more printers is on the way. Nothing here is a promise about a specific machine or a date.

Pick Other. You do not need a supported printer to use Filafy, and this is the honest option rather than a degraded one: the conversion is identical, the palette is identical, and you still get a painted 3MF, a PNG and a layered SVG.

The one difference is at the slicer. Because we model nothing about your machine, the file carries a complete reference profile at your own nozzle size rather than a profile that matches your printer. So your slicer will ask which printer to use, and the machine and filament presets show under the file’s name instead of matching yours. The colors and the painting load either way.

Choose Other also if you would simply rather not say what you own.

Two slicers are supported: Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer. You do not choose one against your printer, because the printer decides which are possible, and Other offers both since we are modelling nothing either way.

Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer

The 3MF arrives with the printer preset, the print profile, the build plate and every filament slot already bound, each slot carrying the real preset for that brand and type plus its exact color. Load the listed spools, slice, print.

PrusaSlicer, AnyCubic, Creality and Elegoo appear in the list but are not selectable yet.

• Nozzle. 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 or 0.8 mm. This is the setting that changes what comes out, because Filafy sizes every line, dot and detail so it actually prints at the nozzle you set. 0.4 mm is the common size; go finer for lettering, fur and foliage, and coarser for a much tougher first layer on big flat panels.
• Print quality. The layer height profile your 3MF opens with, from Extra fine down to Draft.
• Build plate. Pre selected in the 3MF so the bed temperature follows it, and, because art prints go face down, it is also the finish.
• Max colors. The most filaments one print may use, anywhere from 2 to 24. A new account starts low deliberately, so a first print does not need a full shelf.

Max colors per printer

Max colors is an account setting, and any printer you own may override it. That matters the moment two of your machines disagree: a four slot machine and a sixteen slot machine want different budgets, and without this you would be editing one number every time you switched.

The box beside each printer under Settings → Printer is empty by default, which means “this printer has no opinion, use the account setting”. Fill it in and that printer uses its own number instead. A single conversion can also override both from the Convert page, without changing either setting.

Color depth

Only used when Sharp color boundaries is on, this is how far each color reaches into the tile, or into the face you picked on a model, 0.6 mm out of the box and adjustable per download. It sets the depth, not how sharp the boundaries are. On a model Filafy measures the material behind the face and keeps the color within half of it, so the number you set is a ceiling rather than a promise.

Filafy checks your uploaded model against the build volume of the printer you picked, and says something before you spend a credit. There are two different warnings, because they are two different problems.

• “Your model may not fit.” The model itself is bigger than the build volume. It tells you both measurements so you can see by how much.
• “No room for the purge tower.” The model fits, but a multi color print needs a prime or purge tower standing next to it on the plate, and yours does not leave enough room. A single color print does not need one, so this only appears when the palette actually calls for it.

Neither one blocks anything. Your slicer is the final arbiter, so Filafy warns and gets out of the way. If another printer you own does fit, the warning offers to switch this project to it in one click.

If a filament you definitely own has vanished from a conversion, this is almost always why. Filafy hides filaments that cannot safely print through your nozzle. Abrasive and particle filled materials, which means carbon and glass fiber and the metal, wood, marble, sparkle and glow filled ones, can clog or wear out a small nozzle, and some do not bond well at a small line width.

The Convert page lists what it set aside and why, so this is never silent. It is per nozzle, so the same spool that disappears at 0.2 mm is available at 0.6 mm.

You can turn it off under Settings → Printer, after acknowledging what it means. With safety off those filaments stay available and Convert flags the risky ones instead of removing them, and it is on you to pick filaments your printer can actually print.