Pick a plate for the finish

Because your artwork prints face down, the surface people see is the very first layer, laid straight onto the build plate. That makes it the highest stakes layer of the whole print. The plate gives the face its finish, and how well that first layer sticks decides whether the art comes out whole.

On a model, face down is not always possible. Face down rotates the model onto the painted face, and the rest of it may then need supports. Some models put another part on the plate first, so face down would leave the artwork in mid air on supports. Filafy then turns the option off for that file and says why on the download page. The model prints painted side up, and the rest of this page matters less. For a separate solid in the way, choose Just the part you painted under Parts to bring face down back.

Whatever texture the plate has is pressed into your artwork’s face, so pick the plate for the look you want. Filafy pre selects your chosen plate in the 3MF so the bed temperature follows it, and your slicer lists the exact plates your printer supports.

• Textured PEI: a matte, lightly stippled face. The most forgiving for adhesion and the kindest to blemishes, since it hides layer sheen and small first layer flaws. Usually needs no glue. The safest default, especially for large flat panels.
• Smooth or high temp PEI: a glossy, dead flat face. The most vivid, printed poster look, but it shows everything. Dust, a fingerprint, a gap or a slightly off first layer all end up on the finished face. Keep it spotless and dial the first layer in. Some materials, PETG especially, grip smooth PEI hard enough to chip it, and a thin swipe of glue stick works as a release agent there.
• Cool plate class: glossy plates rated for low bed temperatures. Great for PLA, but limited to the materials and temperatures they are built for; they will not take high temp filaments. Check what your slicer allows for the plate.
• Aftermarket and patterned plates (holographic, foil, carbon look): these stamp their pattern into the face for a genuinely one of a kind finish. Many are low tack. Use a glue stick for even hold, and expect some trial and error. Where they do not grip, the art can tear out mid print. Stunning when they work; textured PEI is the safe fallback if you would rather not gamble the finish.

A wide, thin panel is the hardest thing to keep flat. If an edge lifts even slightly mid print, the layers above it print onto air. You get holes and stringy gaps right in the artwork. A few habits prevent it.

• Add a brim. A full outer brim anchors the entire edge and is the reliable choice for thin panels. Mouse ears (little corner tabs) are lighter but only hold the corners, so big flat regions between them can still peel. Peel the brim off and trim the witness line afterwards.